Clothes In the New Kingdom—Ancient Styles
The New Kingdom era of ancient Egypt, a period from about 1570 to 1070 BCE, was a time of great wealth and power, and this opulence was reflected in the clothing of the Egyptians. This blog post will delve into the fascinating world of clothing in the New Kingdom, exploring the styles worn by different social classes, the fabrics used, and the colors that were popular during this period.
The Royal Family
The royal family of ancient Egypt, including pharaohs and their kin, adorned themselves with the finest clothing, much more luxurious than what other classes could afford. Their garments were made of finely spun linen, noted for its softness and almost diaphanous quality. This fine linen was intricately pleated, particularly for kilts worn by the pharaohs and nobles, indicating their elevated status.
For official duties, the pharaoh wore a unique half-pleated kilt, wound counter-clockwise around the body with a pleated section drawn to the front. The quality of the linen used for the royal family was superior, softer, and whiter compared to others.
In addition to their clothing, the royal family was known for their ornate headdresses and crowns. Kings, queens, and even depictions of gods were seen in colorfully embroidered linen, and their clothing often featured beading. This adornment extended to accessories as well, with the use of dyed leather for colorful shoes and belts. Bead nets were sometimes worn over women's dresses, and beadwork decorated men's kilts. However, the clothing recovered from tombs often resembled long-sleeved garments, contrasting with the tight-fitting or pleated robes shown in paintings and reliefs.
Wigs were another elaborate aspect of the royal attire, worn by both men and women. These heavy, decorated hairpieces were so large and complex that they could lead to bald spots on the wearer's scalp. The construction and maintenance of these wigs formed a significant industry, with specialized servants assisting members of the royal household in wearing them.
The Upper Class
Men of the upper class in the New Kingdom were known for their elaborate clothing. They commonly wore knee-length kilts made from a rectangular piece of linen, with pleats or a stiffened front. These kilts were either tied or fastened around the body. In cooler weather, cloaks were sometimes worn. The wealthy also had the privilege of wearing animal fibers, despite the taboos associated with wool, which was considered impure. For footwear, leather sandals were a common choice.
Upper-class women's clothing was marked by elegance and sophistication. They wore pleated dresses with fringes, often accompanied by a transparent garment. Formal attire was even more elaborate, sometimes influenced by Greek or Roman fashions. The kalasiris, a long linen dress, was a staple garment for women throughout ancient Egypt's history. Women's clothing was typically more conservative than men's, and the length of the dress often indicated the social status of the wearer. Embellishments like beading or feathers were common.
The Priesthood
In ancient Egypt, the clergy, including priests and priestesses, held a unique place in society. Their primary responsibility was to care for the gods in the temples. Men and women could be clergy, performing the same functions and receiving equal pay. Women often served as priestesses of female deities, while men served male gods, but this was not strictly adhered to.
Priests were generally only permitted to wear linen clothing and white papyrus sandals when tending to the gods. Leather and wool were not considered ritually pure. From the Old Kingdom onwards, Sem (mortuary) priests wore leopard skin over their linen clothing, held in position by a strap over one shoulder.
The priesthood included various specialized roles such as hour-priests (astronomers), doctors (who combined medicine and magic), and ka-priests (who performed daily offerings at tombs). Most priesthood roles were part-time, with priests dividing their time between temple duties and regular jobs in the community. While serving in the temple, they lived within the temple complex and adhered to strict ritual purity, including multiple daily baths.
Soldiers in the New Kingdom
The New Kingdom marked a significant advancement in Egyptian military technology and organization. Around 1600 BC, following the Egyptian-Hyksos war, the Egyptians introduced their own version of the war chariot, enhancing its design to be lighter and faster than those of other powers in the Middle East. The Egyptian military evolved from levy troops into a more structured organization of professional soldiers. This reorganization was crucial for Egypt's conquests and defenses against foreign territories and powerful Middle Eastern kingdoms.
Egyptian soldiers in the New Kingdom began wearing helmets and tunics made of leather or cloth with metal scale coverings, offering better protection in combat. The charioteers, an essential component of the military, occasionally wore scale armor. However, many preferred broad leather bands crossed over the chest or carried a shield. This attire provided protection for the torso, while the lower body was shielded by the chariot itself. The pharaohs, when partaking in battles, often wore scale armor inlaid with semi-precious stones, providing superior protection.
The Lower Class
The lower class, including peasants and workers, had simpler clothing. Both men and women wore knee-length, plain kilts made of cotton, linen, or byssus (flax). These were usually white or light in color and fastened around the waist with a cloth, papyrus rope, or leather belt. The simplicity of these garments was a reflection of their practical needs and modest means.
Children in ancient Egypt usually wore no clothing until they reached six years of age. After that, they dressed similarly to their parents, with wealthy children wearing miniature versions of adult clothing. A distinctive hairstyle among children was the side-lock, a length of unshaved hair on the right side of the head. Despite often being unclothed, children adorned themselves with jewelry such as anklets, bracelets, collars, and hair accessories.
Materials and Colors
In ancient Egypt, the choice of materials and colors for clothing was deeply influenced by the local climate, available resources, and cultural symbolism. Linen, derived from the flax plant, was the predominant fabric used in ancient Egyptian clothing. It was highly favored in the hot, arid climate of Egypt for its lightweight, breathable, and highly absorbent qualities. The production of linen was a detailed process, involving harvesting, soaking, and spinning the fibers into cloth. Other materials like wool, cotton, and animal hides were also used but were less common. These materials were often reserved for specific purposes or used by certain segments of society, with wool and animal fibers sometimes seen as taboo and forbidden in temples and sanctuaries.
The colors used in ancient Egyptian clothing held symbolic significance, with different hues associated with specific gods, qualities, or elements of nature:
Red (Desher): Made from oxidized iron and red ocher, red symbolized life, vitality, energy, but also danger and destruction. It was associated with the sun god Ra and fire, often used to signify elevated status or to accentuate a dangerous or destructive aspect. However, its interpretation depended on the context, sometimes representing life or a higher being.
Blue (Irtiu and Khesbedj): Often referred to as "Egyptian Blue," this color was made from copper and iron oxides with silica and calcium. Blue symbolized fertility, birth, rebirth, life, and protection. It was used to depict water and the heavens and was linked to the Nile's fertility and the god Thoth, representing wisdom and the life-giving heavens.
Yellow (Khenet and Kenit): Initially made from ocher and oxides, it was later mixed from arsenic trisulphide during the New Kingdom. Yellow symbolized the sun, eternity, purity, and sacred aspects. This color was often used for depicting gods and important figures, suggesting their divine or eternal nature.
Green (Wadj): Derived from malachite, a copper mineral, green symbolized goodness, growth, life, the afterlife, and resurrection. This color was heavily associated with Osiris, representing the cycle of life and death. Green was often used in tomb paintings and amulets, symbolizing positive, life-giving behavior and resurrection.
White (Hedj and Shesep): Made from chalk mixed with gypsum, white symbolized purity, sacredness, cleanliness, and clarity. It was a common color for clothing, symbolizing daily life but also used to highlight the transcendent nature of life. White was frequently employed in artistic pieces and was the color of choice for priests and temple attendants during rituals.
In ancient Egypt, the choice of material and color in clothing was not just a matter of fashion but a reflection of their environment, societal norms, and deep-rooted beliefs in symbolism and divinity.
Footwear and Headdresses
Footwear was generally the same for both sexes, consisting of coiled sewn sandals made of leather or, for the priestly class, papyrus. These were worn on special occasions or when there was a risk of foot injury. Unique headdresses included the khat for noblemen and the nemes for monarchs. Wigs, often made from human hair and supplemented with date palm fiber, were worn by the wealthy of both sexes, especially for special occasions.
Jewelry
Jewelry was a significant aspect of ancient Egyptian fashion, popular across all social classes. It was often heavy and voluminous, serving primarily an aesthetic function against the otherwise soberly dressed Egyptians in white linen. The Egyptians were skilled in crafting jewelry from turquoise, gold, silver, and small beads. Those who couldn't afford precious metals made jewelry from colored pottery beads. Jewelry pieces included earrings, bracelets, rings, necklaces, and neck collars, all brightly colored.
Clothes in Treasures of Egypt
In "Treasures of Egypt," the clothing of the Egyptians is true to their historic period. However, there are some twists. The gods wear different colors, showing off their unique powers and positions. The people of Avaris, known as the Hyksos, mainly dress like Egyptians but add bright, lively colors to their outfits. This mix of styles hints at their Canaanite and Syrian cultural influences.
One special case is Khafset of Avaris, the secondary protagonist. He wears a black kilt, which is unusual for his time. Nefiri, the main character, thinks Khafset just wants to stand out, to be different from his color-loving people and the white-preferring Egyptians. But there's a hidden reason that wasn’t explicitly mentioned in the novel: As a kid, Khafset learned that pirates wore black kilts. Dreaming of becoming a pirate and sailing the seas, he dyed his kilt black to mimic what he believed was a pirate's style.
This detail about Khafset's black kilt adds a fun and personal touch to his character, showing his childhood dreams and how they influence his choices.
Conclusion
The clothing of the New Kingdom in ancient Egypt was a reflection of its society, varying greatly across different social classes. From the sophisticated attire of the royalty to the simpler garments of the lower class, each style had its unique characteristics. The use of linen as the primary fabric, along with the vibrant jewelry and distinctive headdresses, highlights the cultural richness and artistic skills of this ancient civilization.
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